Czech It Out
12.26.2010
New Blog
12.11.2010
Přišti Stanice: America!
12.02.2010
Forearms and The Pope
I like Venice. I like Venice a lot.
First of all, the journey to get there was intense. Instead of dragging this out, I'm just going to list the types of transportation we took in the span of 7 hours: metro, bus, bus, plane, bus, bus, plane, bus, walking around aimlessly.
Let me start with the last mode of transportation. When we finally arrived to the island, it was around 7:30pm and we were starving. We only had a tiny, zoomed-out map of the area where our hostel was. This proved to be problematic. We began asking everyone how to get to Santa Croce. Unfortunately, the entire area was called Santa Croce. Great. After making several friends, one man finally offered to walk us to the street we needed to be on. He was amazing. Still, our hostel was only labeled with "555." It was a silly adventure. We dropped off our bags, met our 4 other hostel mates, and then went to dinner. We were going to go to a recommended restaurant, but it was trashy, so we skipped down a few and ended up at this glorious place. Let's call it "Donny's." Donny was our waiter who looked like Will Schuster from Glee, but Italian. I ordered gnocchi, Becca got lasagna. We shared a bottle of wine. We were so hungry from our journey though that we ended up ordering a pizza to share afterwards. That was the switch. As soon as we ordered it, Donny and his manager started to flirt with us-- his manager is old by the way. They end up giving us each a lemon cello shooter. Then, another. Then, cookies. However, they only charged us for the first dish and the wine. Not too shabby, eh?
We finally went back to the hostel after our 4-hour dinner and slept wonderfully. The weather the next day was horrendous. It was raining, windy, and coooold (brr, I'm shivering just thinking about it). This would have been fine if I had prepared for it, however, I didn't have rain boots or a poncho. I thought that this would just be an inconvenience, but about 20 minutes into our first walk around, we found that it was impossible to do. Parts of the city flooded because... well, let's face it; it's a city on water. So 15 Euros later, I had myself some mean galoshes. There were streets we walked down where the water was up to our mid-calves. It made for a really entertaining morning. We saw ... well, something of importance. This is awful that I can't remember what it was called, but I was tagging along with Becca on her whirlwind architecture Thanksgiving, so don't judge me. There were old columns with babies carved into them. We played "Posing with Friends" all morning and I got a gem of Becca in a special round of "Posing with Children."
We went to get lunch and got lured into a restaurant with the simplest of "Preggo"-s. "Preggo" means "please." The whole time, I kept thinking about a story that Jennie Cohen told me about her study abroad experience. She said that when her mom visited her in Italy, she told her to think of the tomato sauce, Preggo, whenever she needed to say "please." Well, Sherry Cohen kept getting a little confused and would say "Ragu," instead. I never forgot what preggo meant thanks to that story.
Anyway, we got ushered into a restaurant by a charming Italian man who sang to us. It's important that I mention what he was singing: Akon, Alicia Keys, etc. I'll come back to this later. The water right outside the restaurant was so high that it was flooding into the front room. This time, Becca ordered Gnocchi and I ordered spaghetti with seafood and of course, we shared another bottle of wine. Both were deemed as our favorite dishes we had eaten on the entire trip, despite creepy chefs that stared excessively.
We went to St. Mark's after that, which was flooded, yet beautiful. We strolled a bit and then we went to a church right on the corner of the island. It was completely dark because the sun sets at 4:30pm over here and it was already 5pm. I have never seen a church this dark before. It made it a lot cooler than the others since the only light used was candlelight.
Afterwards, we were so tired, yet so far from our hostel. We decided to just walk in the general direction of it and hope that we end up in a familiar area. An hour later, we were tired, cold, wet, and lost. Eventually, we found 555 and crashed for a little before dinner. I became mysteriously sick for a hot second (food poisoning?) but don’t worry, it didn’t slow me down. Becca and I went close by to get dinner. I only had soup though. I hated being so lame so we decided to gelato’s a few doors down- because you can’t go to Italy and not have gelato! Well, it was aiiight, but the man that was making the pizza behind the counter had these beautifully sculptured forearms. So, Becca and I ended up staying at this gelato-pizza place for about an hour and a half, watching forearms make pizza. Finally, we called it a night.
The next morning we woke to the wonderful surprise of SUNLIGHT! Becca and I headed out around what felt like 7am, but it was more like 9. The grounds were wet, but not flooded. It was so beautiful. The awesome architect that Becca is, we went to two churches on islands across from the city. It’s still Venice, but you have to take a water taxi to get there. Water taxis aren’t extremely expensive, but apparently, they work on honor code. By the end of the weekend, we had stopped buying tickets.
We floated over to see this one church and we were the first tourists of the day. I guess the ladies were excited to entertain us because they offered to take us to the sacracy that was in the convent. We said of course, but I honestly had no idea what a sacracy was (and I still don’t think I do). We walked into a dark room and the only things I could make out were HEADS. HEADS IN JARS. I looked at Becca in horror because I thought that this was going to be a scene straight out of Texas Chainsaw Murder. However, when homegirl turned on the lights, I realized that they were wax heads of bishops. Whewee, did it give me a fright. Basically, the only things back there were a variety of religious photos.
We left this jaunt and headed to another church. We had to take, yet another taxi. Oh, I remember! These churches are Palladio designs, for all you architects out there. So, the second one was a little busier than the first- probably because they had a tower where you could see quite the view of the city. Thank goodness we saved these for Saturday since the weather was beautiful. When we went to buy the ticket to go up, however, the guy that we paid was Russian and obviously very bored. He tried to pay us back in dollars because we were American. And then he whipped out this number, “Obama is your president? He gets a lot of sun, no?” Becca and I died laughing. This wasn’t the first racist remark we had heard on this trip, either. The first was when we were in St. Mark’s Square.
This very American man was waiting for walking traffic to die down beside Becca and I. After several minutes, he turns to me and says, “Well, that’s a lot of China’s.” I was speechless.
Back to the story. We were hungry after our morning adventures, so we went to a small restaurant in a tiny square. Best pizza from the whole weekend. It was so good. We shared another bottle of wine and then headed back out. For the record, our meals are not short here. I got the vibe that it was rude to dine and dash (with paying, of course). One waiter even told us to slow down.
Next stop was Murano, the glass-making island. It was a 30-minute water taxi ride. We didn’t really have a game plan for when we got there, but we figured it was worth a shot. I think we actually enjoyed the taxi ride more than the actual island because it was really peaceful. We walked around the island a little bit, did a little shopping, and then decided to spend sunset at Burano, the island next door that is known for vibrant colored buildings. It was another 30-minute taxi ride, so yet another deep thought, soul-searching trip and we were there. Oh gosh, we were on the water for sunset. So. Darn. Pretty.
Burano was my favorite place we visited all weekend. We arrived when all the tourists were leaving. Therefore, I believe that we had a genuine Italian experience here. We took some sweet pix yo of the homes. Then, we ended up on a pretty busy road. We were excited to see children running everywhere and Italians yelling enthusiastically at each other. We got a sweet shot of Becca posing with children. It took strategey and perseverance. We were almost ready for dinner, but since most of the shops were closing, we decided to go ahead and find somewhere to sit down.
We walked into one restaurant and homeboy looked confused as to why these strangers were walking into his restaurant. Even though there were other people eating, he told us it was closed. Rude boy. So, we went across the street to a place called “Galuppi’s.” When we walked in, there were 3 older men sitting around the door, as if they were waiting for something. We asked awkwardly if they were open and they enthusiastically ushered us into a table in the front corner of the restaurant. Becca and I had no idea of the events that were about to unfold.
Our waiter was the youngest one there (but, still about 30). He was charming as he gave us wine and cheese (from the market outside I think hahaha). He spilled the wine accidentally and told us it was good luck. Two minutes later, he was walking by and Becca spilled a lot all over her area. She was flustered, but homeboy came by and said, “that’s really good luck! Two kisses for me.” We didn’t really know what he meant because he left after he said that. So, we ate our bread until the waiter brought us more. Lots of carbs in this country, that’s for sure. We were finishing our second basket of bread when a group of about 15 old men walked in. They walked straight to the back of the restaurant to an area where they couldn’t see us. None of them noticed us. We assumed they came to watch the soccer game, however 5 minutes later we hear this deep-belly singing. And BAM! They are all harmonizing. This isn’t choir practice, either. This is genuine and passionate singing just for the heck of it. They were having such a good time back there. Becca and I were laughing so hard. This had to have been the coolest experience, yet. The bartender was giving them a ton of alcohol.
At one point, our waiter was finished his shift so he came over to us and gave us each two kisses on the cheek. It was so European of us. He was precious. After he left, the most ridiculous man I have ever met replaced him. He didn’t come over to us until the old men left, though. And when the old men left they finally noticed us. Unabashed, they stopped by the door and started to serenade us. I have never been so flattered in my life. They were calling us beautiful and something about the moon (we obviously didn’t know Italian). We responded by raising our wine glasses and yelling “Bravo! Bravo!” Good answer. They were singing another song on their way out the door.
Gahhh. I love Italy. But this story is not over yet, my friends. So, this old old old and gross-looking man scuttles towards our table. He is comparable to Darth Vader after he takes off his mask in the 6th movie. He immediately asks us to marry him. He starts to brag that he’s the owner and that he’s met the Pope (he has, we saw the pictures). He goes on to ask us to take a picture with him… with our cameras. We get a few gems.
FINALLY, we order our pastas. My dish comes 20 minutes later with meat on it, so it became quite the task to scrape off (I refuse to be “that” American in a foreign country who can’t accept what they make for em). Of course, this man, who we assume is the Galuppi, returns to the table several times. I forgot to mention that in the photos, he was nuzzling Becca’s neck rather enthusiastically. When we finished our meals and were getting ready to leave, he gave us his card, which we then placed on the corkboard in the hostel. What a character. So, this meal was voted the best experience on the trip.
The taxi back to Venice was an hour long. Becca and I fell asleep. Something about these water taxis is so lulling. We got back to the hostel in hopes that we’d find hostel mates to play with, but apparently we missed the fun ones by 5 minutes. Disappointed, we decided to just get dessert and more wine somewhere. We went to the place below the hostel. After awhile, we finally called it a night.
The next morning, we had about an hour to kill before we needed to catch a bus to the airport. However, the weather returned to the horrible cold and rainy weather we had the first day. We were miserable trying to find a place to get coffee, so we eventually just waited for a bus. When it finally came, everyone stuffed into it- way past capacity. Windows were fogged and people’s personal spaces were invaded. Becca and I miraculously had seats. 30 minutes later, we arrived at the airport and repeated day one’s transportation cycle: bus, plane, bus, bus, plane, bus, bus, metro, walking.
We were surprised to find snow on the ground in Munich when we switched planes. We spent the entire flight to Prague hoping to see snow there, as well. And we did! It was a light dusting, but enough to get us giddy.
Looking back at that is a joke now. It has snowed approximately 10 more inches this week. Unlike Raleigh, however, the city keeps functioning. I had my last few classes this week and I only have 2 more to do work before I’m finished. The next week is freakin’ easy for me, but really hard for the architecture students. Ahhh, the easy life.
I am going to Kutna Hora tomorrow with a few of the usuals- Becca, Matt, BryBro, Rocio. However, after that, it’s the long stretch. I return to America on Dec. 12th. Yikes… real life again.
11.23.2010
Black Music & company
11.17.2010
"So-Dium" Long
So, about a week and a half ago, I committed myself to go to Poland this past weekend. Talk about a whimsical adventure. I went with Matt and then three people we met through the NYU program in Cesky Krumlov; Henry, Michelle, and Stephanie.
We found our hostel relatively easily and it was superb.
It was only $11 per night and they gave us breakfast, a polish salad (more about that later), homemade lemon vodka, and one of the girls that worked there took us out (throughout the trip, of course). Also, they had the radio on at most hours. It was amazing. If you ever go to Krakow, stay at Zodiakus. Best hostel I've stayed at yet.
First of all, we took the night train. It costed us only about 95kc for a roundtrip ticket. That's crazy talk in this continent. We spent half of the ride bouncing off the walls with excitement for the trip and the fact that we were sitting in our own cabin with 6 shelves as beds. It was the first time that I truly felt like I was back-packing around Europe on a college-student-budget.
Amazing.
We finally felt exhausted enough to sleep around 1:30am. Therefore, I climbed up to the highest bed and cozied myself up to the cheap blankets. A few hours later, we heard a tapping on the door. We were 20 minutes away. The train sort of lulls you to sleep. It was peaceful... well, except for when we sat at a train station for an hour or so. Actually, at one point, we were wating for at least 30 minutes, but when we started moving again, we were moving in the opposite direction. I don't understand but we made it to Krakow with perfect timing.
Anyways, we got there around 7am, ate breakfast, then napped in the common room until our room was ready (around 9am). We settled in and headed out around the city. We decided to hop onto a free tour of Krakow but I don't think we stayed for even 1/4 of it because we ditched it about an hour in. Three hours later, we ran into the tour group at the castle. It was silly. We hid from the tour guide so that he wouldn't judge us.
So after we saw beautiful views of the river and the city, we decided to indulge in Polish treats. This wasn’t actually a decision we had planned. We were walking past a treat shop when we discovered it and without discussion, we all walked it. Each of us ordered something different and then shared with the rest. The Polish women that worked there were real nasty. They refused to give me forks so I forced Henry to use his charm and wit to get them. He came back with only 2. Despite Matt being on antibiotics for tonsillitis, we all dug in feverishly.
When we ditched the tour, we got lunch at a Thai restaurant. Overall, it was unimpressive but we weren't hungry afterward. We continued on our own tour around Poland. We went up to the castle and walked around. Great views and better opportunities to take pictures. You see, Henry and Michelle have been playing this game all over Europe where they take pictures in the exact same pose as another tourist. They call it "posing with friends," and I got to join in, too.
We continued our adventure around the Jewish Quarter. Actually, we had intended to see Schindler’s Factory [Schindler’s List], however we arrived 5 minutes after the last tour started. Don’t worry, that didn’t slow us down.
Next stop was back to the hostel for Traditional Polish Salad night! Sounds delicious right? Err, wrong. Well, if I’m being honest, I didn’t mind it. I owe my adventurous taste-testing to my mother’s adventurous cooking (Thanks Mom). Everyone else, however, were left unsatisfied. Henry took one bite and then started to bribe us to eat it for him. I know it’s considered rude if you don’t eat someone’s food in America, but for some reason I feel like it’s 10x more extreme here. Anyway, we ended up splitting up the leftover salad on all of our plates to make it look like we each tried some and then went to go get a substantial dinner close by.
The restaurant we chose apparently had the best pierogies, but that didn’t really matter because OUR HOST WORE WHITE GLOVES. Isn’t that cool? The food was, overall, nothing special. Well, except Matt’s. He got salmon pasta and it tasted like barbeque and death. That's pretty special.
After dinner, we wondered around looking for a place to hang out. We ended up at a place that the hostel recommended called Alchemia (I think). The environment was awesome. There were basically two candle sticks as the only light and all the booths were wooden. Combined with the rooms filled with people and the cheap beer, we were enjoying ourselves. We were real tired after only a few drinks, so we headed back to the hostel and called it a night.
On Saturday, we went back to Schindler’s Factory. I’m really glad we went back because I really – I don’t want to say “enjoyed” because no one enjoys the Holocaust, but I benefitted from the experience. The museum was extremely well done and effective. It was structured in a timeline format and each room had a completely different environment. So, when the Nazi’s invaded Poland with their propaganda, we walked through a room that was everything-swastika, even the floors. When the city was destroyed, we walked through a cave with a soft ground. It opened up to a gravel room. In a display, there were items in the gravel like eyeglasses and buttons. The whole museum was such an experience.
Afterward, we went to a bagel shop called Bagel Mama. Apparently, Henry, Michelle, and Stephanie read about it in wiz-air magazine on the airplane. It was owned by an American. I enjoyed my first tuna melt since I left the states. Mmm, tuna melts.
The next stop was a market area we found. It was cooler than any markets I have been to in Prague because the items were legit. I mean old jewelry, nazi badges, vintage clothing. You had to bargain prices, too. I wanted to get something but couldn’t bring myself to pay 11 zloties for a necklace.
Which brings me to the topic of sluts. The money that Poland uses is called “zloty.” Therefore, a ticket on the bus, let’s say, would be 3 zloties. To make things easier for us, we chose to just say 3 sluts. Everything became slutty real quick. We were passing sluts around all weekend.
Okay, I’m finished being immature. We took the public bus to the famous salt mine about 20 minutes away in Wieliczka. I love public transportation. We got there and paid about 50 sluts to see it. That would be about $17. For a two-hour tour really far below the surface of the Earth (I can’t be specific because I couldn’t convert the measure they use here to something I could understand), it was pretty cheap. Apparently, we only saw 1% of the salt mine, too. These miners were something else though. They’ve been digging in this mine for centuries. They carved statues to prove it. Also, there were salt chapels. We had a really good time here. The highlight of this place, though, was when we spent a solid 20 minutes making salt puns such as “carpe so-dium” or “I’m bitter about that experience.”
We bebopped back to Krakow with time to spare before dinner. Everyone split up at one point. Stephanie had a skype-date, Michelle and I went back to the hostel for a power nap, while the boys went on a bro-walk. That’s code for bonding. Eventually we met back up and the boys took us to a Latin restaurant they discovered during bonding. Michelle wasn’t feeling well, so we had to leave her behind.
Sucks, cause dinner was delectable. I had a massive child-sized burrito. Everyone else had fruit-stuff meat, which apparently tasted like 5 stars and was priced at 3. It was so great that we decided to return again the next night before the meal was over. We shared crème brulee and chocolate mousse. Also, this was my first experience with chili chocolate. Chili chocolate, for those who don’t know, is spicy. I do not recommend anyone to try this unless you have a stuffy nose. It’s not worth it.
I forgot to mention that this was vodka-night at the hostel and they were going to take everyone out to different clubs around Krakow. We all took lemon vodka shots before we left. Actually, we took two because Alicja (the girl that worked there) claims that it is tradition to take a shot whenever someone leaves. It was delicious.
After dinner, we found everyone still at the hostel even though it was past the time that they were going to go out. Alicja insisted to take us to her favorite café/pub. Im glad she came with us because we had a great time in this hidden place. In Poland, people drink their beers with syrup and straws. Punks. While we were hanging out with Alicja, her sister showed up with her boyfriend. Her TWIN sister. Twins freak me out. They were wearing the exact same thing, too. It was funny because when I pointed that out to them, they looked at each and as if on cue, they both laughed at the exact same moment, at the exact same pitch.
We spent most of the time there playing “True or False,” but it was the Polish version and Alicja couldn’t figure out how to translate all of them into Englis. We talked a lot about the differences between Poland and America, Poland and Prague. Poland is actually very, very similar to Prague. I was talking to Ladislav about this today and he said that they have almost identical histories, even with the same king at one point. However, Poland is a lot more religious for some reason.
We didn’t stay out very late because as Henry said, “I don’t want to be hungover for Auschwitz.”
We were picked up the next morning for Auschwitz. It is about an hour drive outside of Krakow, but there was a tour that organized the whole thing for us. I was bonding with a girl from Leeds on the way. When we finally got there, the mood suddenly changed. Everyone became very tense. We walked around the main Auschwitz area for two hours. We saw the famous gate that says, “Work Will Set You Free.” We also saw the torture chambers and a gas chamber. Most of the main camp became an exhibit. I didn’t realize this until I took a tour, but there were a lot of different parts to Auschwitz.
After a short break, we went to Auschwitz-Birkenou, which is the main death camp. It was a bus-trip away, though. This part of the camp was completely preserved the way it was after the war. Most of the buildings collapsed, but there were a few that we could walk in. We saw the bathroom and the building that they slept in. There were two parts, though, where I was really moved: when we were standing on the platform where they decided the fate of each person (fit or not fit), and when we were standing beside the gas chamber ruins. When the Nazis realized they were about to lose the war, they destroyed the gas chambers in hopes of covering up the plot.
Overall, the whole experience was really powerful. I needed to recoup afterwards. We got back to Krakow and were starving. As promised, we went back to Manzana. We thought we could get away with going a second night, but our waitress recognized us (even though she wasn’t our waitress the first night). Henry kept talking about these street sandwiches you can buy and how badly he wanted one before we left. I told him I would split one with him so we did “for dessert.” When we got back to the hostel, Henry tried some Polish sour soup, too. That kid had to have been stuffed afterwards.
I forgot to mention that on our walk back, we met another American. This guy seemed so normal and legit and then he slips it in that he's an opera singer. He sang for us... in the middle of Poland. At 10PM. So funny.
We left Krakow around 10:30PM on Sunday via the night train again. This time, we shared our cabin with a man named Steve from Manchester. He was real friendly, but he went to bed right away, so the rest of us felt obligated to do the same. By 11:30PM, I was out. However, I kept waking up and looking out the window because it was beautiful.
The guy on the returning train wasn’t as nice as the first one because he unlocked our door, turned on our lights and said, “GET UP!” Oy. We got back to Prague and that was it- the end of our Krakow trip!
Not too shabby, eh? I know it took me forever to get this blog up, but I’ve been a busy bee with the beekeeping class making wax candles and a cooking class. I made a Czech meal from scratch last night. More specifically, I made bread, cheese and carrot spread to go with the bread, a soup that starts with the letter K, and Moravian pie. Yup.
Oh and today I went to a provocative museum. The art is called Decadent Art, which Ladislav informed me meant debauched or disgusting art. Techincally, we went to see a textile exhibit, but a part of the provocative exhibit was on the main floor so we convinced Ladi and Nina to let us go see it. It was… well, provocative. For example, you know those plastic doll sets where you break off the different body parts and put together a doll with accessories? There was a giant one of Jesus on the cross. There was a whole wall of pictures of naked people with piercings in inappropriate places, looking like they are getting tortured and fashion bags over their heads. The display was called “fashion victims.”
The building across the street had the rest of the exhibit. I might have to go see just because it was so interesting.
Okay, okay, I’m done writing my novel.